How to Check Aluminum Arrows for Damage

Aluminum arrows are still everywhere for a reason. They’re consistent, affordable, available in a huge range of spines, and they’re the standard in many indoor programs. If you’ve ever shot NASP, you’ve seen them, and you might even be shooting Genesis-specific aluminum arrows right now.

They’re also used far beyond youth programs. Even high level archers choose aluminum at serious events, including major championships. The key is that experienced shooters understand the risks, and they inspect their arrows constantly.

Because here’s the truth: aluminum arrows are durable, but they are not bulletproof. They can pick up damage that is easy to miss, and that damage can cost you points and create a safety problem if you keep shooting it.

This post breaks down exactly how to spot the common damage patterns and what to do when you find them.

Why Aluminum Damage Is Different

Carbon arrows tend to tell you when something is wrong. You bend them and you hear cracking, creaking, or you see obvious splintering. Aluminum can be sneakier.

Aluminum often does not fail loudly, and even a shaft that looks “mostly fine” can have:

• a hidden dent that changes stiffness

• a slight bend that ruins grouping

• a crushed sidewall that becomes a future failure point

So the goal is not just “is it safe,” but also “is it going to group with the rest of my set.”

Wall Thickness Matters More Than Diameter

Two arrows can look similar and behave very differently depending on wall thickness.

Example sizes mentioned:

• 2312

  • “23” = arrow diameter series (bigger than 18)

  • “12” = wall thickness

  • thinner wall → easier to damage

• 1820

  • smaller diameter series

  • “20” wall thickness → more robust

General rule: thin wall aluminum dents easier, especially from side impacts.

How This Damage Usually Happens

This isn’t just “robin hoods.” The highest risk scenario is a hanger.

A hanger is when an arrow goes into the target and doesn’t seat cleanly, so it’s sitting out at an angle or partially supported. Then the next arrow comes in and smacks the side of the shaft.

Other common causes:

• arrows glancing off each other in a tight spot

• worn out target butts that don’t grab arrows well

• shared club arrows that have taken a lot of unknown impacts

Important detail: this kind of damage does not require a high draw weight. It can happen with a Genesis bow around 20 pounds.

Damage Type 1: Surface Scratches (Usually OK)

You’ll sometimes see a silver streak where the anodized coating is removed. If it looks like a scratch and you cannot feel a dent, it may be only surface level.

Quick checks

1. Spin test

   • spin the arrow in your hand and look for wobble

   • if it spins straight and the reflection stays uniform, you’re probably fine

2. Light reflection check

   • look down the arrow and rotate it under a light

   • if the light reflection stays even and you only see missing coating, that’s generally not structural

3. Gentle bend test

   • bend the shaft slightly (about an inch or 2–3 cm)

   • rotate and repeat in multiple directions

   • if there is no creaking, cracking, or sudden change, it is likely still safe

This type of wear can still affect grouping slightly if one arrow is “worn in” more than the others, but it’s usually not an immediate safety concern.

Damage Type 2: Dents and Side Crush Marks (Not OK)

This is the big one.

A dent or crush mark changes the stiffness of the shaft and can bend it. Even if it still “kind of spins okay,” it can absolutely throw an arrow out of the group.

How to spot it

• look for distortion in the light reflection as you rotate the shaft

• run your fingers along the shaft and feel for a flat spot or ripple

• visually compare that section to the rest of the arrow, especially near the reflection line

If you can see the reflection “warp” or you can feel a depression, treat it as a bad arrow.

Why it costs points
That dent changes the structure and stiffness in one spot. So even if your form is good, that arrow may fly differently and land out of your normal group.

Damage Type 3: Clearly Bent Shafts (Immediate Remove)

Sometimes the easiest giveaway is simply: you look down the shaft and it’s bent. If you spin it with a point installed, it will wobble noticeably.

A bent shaft is not a “maybe.” It is a training arrow at best, and often it should be removed entirely.

What to Do With Damaged Aluminum Arrows

If an arrow has a crush spot, dent, or meaningful bend:

• stop shooting it

• ideally break it so it cannot be reused by someone else

• dispose of it properly

If you hate wasting gear, there are a couple safer reuse options:

• ask a shop to cut it down and use it for a pen build (a common recycling method)

• keep it as a demo arrow to teach new archers what damage looks like

But do not keep it in the quiver where it can accidentally return to the shooting line.

The Tournament Tip: Separate Practice and Competition Sets

One of the most practical recommendations in the video is to separate arrows by purpose.

If you shoot aluminum indoors a lot, consider:

• a tournament set (clean, straight, inspected, minimal wear)

• a practice set (the ones that get beat up over time)

Even surface wear from rests and plungers can change how an arrow behaves compared to a fresh, uniform dozen. The closer your arrows are in condition, the less mystery you deal with on scoring day.

A Note for Clubs, NASP, and Shared Equipment

This matters even more in clubs because:

• arrows get shared

• arrows hang in targets more often due to lower draw weights and worn butts

• damage accumulates quickly without one person “owning” inspection

Aluminum is chosen for good reasons, including reduced catastrophic failure risk compared to carbon. But it is still highly susceptible to dents and bends that are easy to miss.

A fast inspection habit can prevent injuries and can help your whole team shoot better at the next tournament.

The 30 Second Inspection Routine

Use this every time you pull arrows:

1. Look down the shaft and rotate it under a light

2. Find reflection distortions that indicate dents

3. Spin test for wobble

4. Gentle bend test in a few directions

If anything looks off, remove it.